Conditions #
Break: PB Pier
Board: 8'8 Pigformer
Swell: 2-4ft.
Tide: 4ft swampy high
Wind: 3-6knts onshore
Rating: Super fun summer waves
Log #
Summer is here in San Diego. The north swells are slowing down and the south swells are firing up. We're still getting a little bit of a combo swell effect, but coupled with the high tide and weaker summer waves, we're seeing 2-3ft surf with the occasional four foot set.
This morning was an essence of summer surf. Fun, mushy, point break type waves were breaking just south of Crystal Pier. The water started glassy, reflecting the grey late-May morning before the onshore winds arrived. I'm glad I brought the Pig- conditions were peaky and fitting for a mid length board. I did get stuffed by a few closeouts and late takeoffs, but caught more than my fair share of waves throughout the morning. In particular, a couple of long rights were more than enough to make my day.
I had a heavy thinking morning, particularly after Mike and Cody paddled in. I'm struggling with "friendship," and where the line sits. What do I owe them? What do they owe me? I think Mike is going through a particularly tough time, but I'm not sure that is an excuse for behavior, though maybe I'm being the selfish one. Either way, I've got more thinking to do on it.
I enjoyed a blissful drive back, sponsored by the background 90's music jamming over Bluetooth. Last week's trip to Big Sur seemed to have filled my soul cup- I'm finally coming around to the idea that regular vacations can and will help my overall mental health. If I continue to do the right things by staying outside and off of the screens, I feel that I will reach a better equilibrium point. Fingers crossed I can sustain it.
Adios and see you later- off to Huntsville for an extremely long weekend. I'm thinking it will be about a week before I surf again. I'll be mind surfing Sunset Cliffs and getting ready for this 6-8ft swell when I return.
Published