Conditions #
Break: PB Reed Street
Board: 8'8 Pigformer
Swell: 2-4ft.
Tide: 3ft-4ft
Wind: 2knts onshore
Rating: Turning and burning all morning long
Log #
This morning was sublime. Mike and I showed at Reed Street around 5:45 and were in the water by 6. Conditions were decent- 3ft mid tide rising to a 4-something high tide. PB seems to like a rising tide approaching peak.
My wave count was absolutely insane today. I was able to 2 stroke into probably 10 waves, along with another 10 that were a little more difficult to catch. The Bing Pigformer really thrives in these softer wind swell type conditions. I had a few breakthroughs on my pigdogging-left maneuver, and was able to really crank the board back up the face of the wave. Once we get some clean 4-5ft surf, my ass is going to be sitting deep in a barrel.
I'm improving on later takeoffs with a bigger board, which I'm hoping will lend itself well to surfing on a shorter board on more critical waves. I'm really happy with the wave count AND the way I rode the waves today. I feel stable on the board, feet planted firmly and feeling the flow of the water.
Overall, this morning was incredibly fun. I am exhausted and content- surfed out to the max. Hoping to get another clean session in tomorrow morning prior to heading up to Big Sur.
Speaking of which- getting a little nervous about the projected swell size up there. Monday is looking like 8ft (hopefully not any bigger), and Sand Dollar is a tough beach break to paddle out on. Looks like I'll be giving Willow Creek a shot this year.
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