Conditions #
Break: Ward Avenue
Board: Pigformer
Swell: 5ft, 8s primary
Tide: High
Wind: Lots
Rating: Great session back
Log #
Wow. It's been 2 years since I started this surf log- life has changed dramatically.
I was (surf) injured, graduated with a Master's, sort of healed, got married, bought a cabin, moved across the state, and have grown the business quite well (though not well enough some days).
The one regret I have?
Not enough surf.
I've surfed less than a handful of times in Fort Bragg, but finally got back out for a paddle. Conditions were fat and messy, but it didn't bother me. I was only there to paddle and to bE PrEsEnt (whatever that means)
It was a success. I didn't catch any waves, but I was out for 30 minutes without shoulder pain or surf anxiety. I could find my way in Fort Bragg with a little more paddle strength. I plan on using this summer to get back in shape (no, really) and hopefully, by this winter, I'll be back in fighting form.
I'd love to be able to surf a few overhead days this year, though that's up to the shoulder. I need to start doing my shoulder exercises in the meantime...
That's it for now. Hopefully more to come as I get my shit back together.
Published