Surf Log 4.26.22 #
Conditions #
Break: Reed Street
Board: 8'8 Pigformer
Swell: 3-5ft.
Tide: 4.8ish peak high
Wind: 1knts N
Rating: Fairly Fun
Log #
Another beautiful Southern California sunrise registered in-memory. The whole crew was out at points this morning. Tim and I showed up at dawn or shortly thereafter. The high tide was definitely fattening up the waves a bit, so we thought the paddle out would be cake. Turns out- we were DEAD wrong. It took 10ish minutes through a pounding shore break followed by a pounding beach break followed by a pounding set wave. We finally made it out and turned around to see Cody working through the same situation. We all caught a few early, and I saw Tim take one a little too far in. He turned around, saw the set waves approaching, and turned his ass right back towards the beach. Mike didn't even see him in the water this morning, Tim was already at the beach by the time Mike made it out.
The waves were interesting today. The short period is mixing in with the longer period surf to create a shelfy mix. The peaks meander their way slowly into the impact zone, where they immediately picked up and crested. I normally like the longer period stuff, but being mixed with the shorter period swells, it created a "damned if you do, damned if you don't scenario." If you were in the right spot for the windswell, you were way inside for the sets. If you were outside waiting on a set, the windswell was picking up and breaking just inside of you. I ended up getting a handful of decent waves, particularly a few good takeoffs I can be proud of. I'm finally getting confident planting the board back and down in big, shelfy, steep surf. Another day, another small improvement. One percenters club baby.
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