Surf Log 4.23.22 #
Conditions #
Break: The Cliffs
Board: 8'8 Pigformer
Swell: 4-6ft. Not as big as yesterday, but a few of the sets came close
Tide: High enough to have to jump in off the rocks
Wind: Remarkably clean
Rating: All-Time Surf
Log #
There are days that have a dreamlike quality about them. Days where nothing can go wrong, luck is in your favor, and all cylinders are firing. Today was one of those days. After getting beat up for 2 hours in 7ft surf yesterday, I made the executive decision to bring something tried and true (and in this case blue). The Bing, while not being designed for big waves, seems to thrive on 6-8ft days at the Cliffs. The last DOH day (known colloquially as The Day) pushed its limits, but it was perfect in the 4-6ers that were out there today.
We started the morning at dawn at the stairs. The tide was so high we had to time the crashing waves and jump in off the rocks. A 4ft or higher tide would normally kill the shape of the wave there, but this swell still had enough energy to overcome. The conditions were glassy and clean, with a beautiful sunrise from the NE to match. Pink and purple colors mingling with the azure blue surf.
I caught a few big waves off the main peak early and ended up drifting down towards Rockpiles with Cody. I had a breakthrough moment with a big left. I've been having issues with pig-dogging down the face of big waves backside, but I finally figured it out today. I hucked myself down the face of a nice 6 footer like a heat seeking missile. I was able to pull the nose and aim it up the face of the wave FINALLY. It is finally clicking- my barrel is inevitable at this point. I'm hopeful we'll get another day or two at the Cliffs again this season. The last two days have been truly spectacular, and today was simply one of the best surf days of my life.
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